Green Beans Planting, Development, And Harvesting 

Green Beans Planting, Development, And Harvesting

Green Beans Planting, Development, And Harvesting

Updated on 10/1/2023
Emma DowneyBy Emma Downey
Gardening Expert
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Green beans are a mainstay in the vegetable gardens of many homes. That is because they are pretty simple to cultivate, even in constrained environments, and yield an astonishing amount of food. That is because green beans are very easy to grow. The planting, growth, and harvesting of green beans, including both pole and bush varieties of the crop, are discussed in length on this page. The essay also delves into the distinctions that exist between the two categories.

About Green Beans

  • Botanical Name: Phaseolus vulgaris
  • Plant Type: Vegetable
  • Sun Exposure: Full Sun
  • pH ranges from slightly acidic to neutral in the soil.
  • Season of Flowering: Summer
  • The color of the flower is white and yellow.
green beans

green beans

All varieties of green beans, sometimes referred to as "string beans" and "snap beans," are annual plants that are highly delicate. Even though the majority of green beans are green in color, there are other varieties of green beans that are colored purple, crimson, yellow, and have color streaks.

What’s The Difference Between Bush Beans And Pole Beans

How green beans are cultivated, either as a "bush" or a "pole," is the primary characteristic that differentiates the various green bean variations:

  • It is unnecessary to provide bush beans with additional support from a structure such as a trellis since they have a more compact growth habit and only reach a height of around two feet when completely mature.
  • Using either a trellis or posts to support the climbing vines that produce pole beans is necessary. Because they may reach heights of up to 15 feet, these vines need to be supported by either a trellis or posts as they climb upward.
    If this video's directions are followed, you can adequately support beans.
about green beans

about green beans

It should come as no surprise that both of these varieties have their share of advantages and disadvantages:

  • Bush beans are usually easier to maintain than pole beans due to their smaller size; nevertheless, they yield more beans over a more extended period and are generally resistant to disease. Bush beans are frequently grown in containers.
  • The maturation process for bush beans takes around 50 to 55 days, whereas the time required for pole beans might range from 55 to 65 days.
  • If you plant bush beans at intervals of two weeks apart, rather than waiting for a single enormous harvest at the end of the growing season, you will have a steady stream of smaller ones throughout the year. Beans grown on a pole need their vines to mature to provide food. If you continue to collect beans from them for at least a month and a half, you will have a consistent supply of beans.


Good drainage, an average amount of fertility, and a pH that varies from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline (6.0–7.0) are the parameters that allow beans to flourish in their natural environment. They frequently do not need any additional fertilizer as they can fix the nitrogen in the soil, enabling them to grow without it. To enhance the quality of impoverished soil, it is recommended that it be amended with compost or aged manure in the fall before any planting takes place (or about a week before planting in the spring).



Before planting pole beans, you should prepare any supports that they will need. Beans do not like it when their roots are messed with, so this is very important. That is a highly significant consideration if you want to cultivate pole beans.

When Should Beans Be Planted And When Should Beans Be Harvested?

  • The beans can reach their full potential when planted in their native environment. You can begin spreading seeds when the soil temperature has reached at least 9 degrees Celsius (48 degrees Fahrenheit) after the last spring frost date. You shouldn't go too far ahead of yourself when it comes to planting since the cold and moist soil will slow down the germination process, and the seeds might end up decaying.
    Before introducing seeds into the ground, it is a good idea to get a head start on planting by covering your garden beds with black plastic or landscaping cloth to warm the soil. That is a piece of excellent advice for getting an early start on planting, and you will be able to get a head start on planting as a result of this.
planting guide

planting guide

  • Do not start green bean seeds inside. Because their roots are so delicate, there is a possibility that they will perish during the process of being transplanted. Because of how rapidly they mature, bringing them inside at a younger age is a technique that is not productive because it is largely unnecessary.

Instructions On How To Get The Ground Ready For Planting Beans

  • Plant bush beans in rows 18 inches apart and 1 inch deep, leaving a spacing of 2 inches between each bean.
  • Plant pole beans at one-inch depth and arranges them to grow around the supports.

Planting pole and bush beans in sandy soils a little deeper than they would ordinarily be produced, but not too deeply, is a piece of valuable advice that gardeners may use. Because the seedlings will "break their necks" in trying to emerge from excessively deep, heavy, dense, packed, or mulched soil, seedlings can't emerge from ground that meets any of the criteria mentioned above.

  • Make sure that the fragile roots of the plants are shielded by creating trellises, stakes, or some other support system before you sow pole beans.

The erection of a tipi is one of the choices you might make in this scenario. The tops of three or four (or more) bamboo poles or long, straight branches that are each 7 feet long should be connected, and then you should spread the legs out in a circle. The next thing that has to be done is to plant three to four seeds in the soil around each pole. You should start training the vines to climb up the bars as soon as the first sprouts appear on the vines. Wrapping thread or wire around the poles halfway up and around the tepee will offer additional stability for the structure while providing something for the vines to cling to.

The term "cattle panel" refers to a movable section of the wire fence that is 16 feet in length and 5 feet in height, and it can offer them an extra easy form of support. Because the beans won't have any problem climbing the vines, picking them won't require you to assume awkward positions because you won't have to reach very far.



  • Planting seeds at regular intervals during the summer will result in a consistent harvest that lasts far into the fall if done correctly. If you are going to be gone for a significant amount of time and won't be able to harvest the crop, you shouldn't bother planting anything since it would be pointless. Beans are a species known for their lack of patience and will not wait for anybody.
  • To prevent an infestation of pests and illnesses from being concentrated in one region, it is essential to rotate crops every year, a practice that is also known as crop rotation. You can accomplish this objective by cultivating the produce in different locations every year.


  • To prevent the soil surrounding bean plants from drying up, mulch the area around them; however, be sure to provide adequate space for drainage. Because beans have fragile roots, mulch helps keep the soil temperature.
  • Maintain a consistent watering schedule of approximately 2 inches of water per square foot each week. If you fail to provide adequate water to your beans throughout the growing process, they will not produce flowers. Only water your plants on the days when the sun is shining to prevent the leaves from becoming soggy, which might promote the growth of the disease.
  • If fertilizer is required, you should start the process after the plant has finished blooming heavily and has set its pods. If you use a fertilizer with high nitrogen content, you will have a lot of lush foliage but not many beans. An excellent alternative to liquid fertilizer is using a side dressing of compost or aged manure around halfway through the growing season.
  • Be thorough in removing the weeds, but be cautious not to disrupt the bean roots.
  • When the pole bean vines reach the top of the support, pinch off the tips of the vines to prevent them from breaking. They will have no choice but to focus their efforts on increasing the number of pods they produce as a result of this.
  • Row covers should protect young plants from the intense heat since high temperatures can cause flowers to fall off of plants, resulting in a smaller crop.

How to Grow Bush Beans - Ultimate Guide For High Yields

When it comes to green beans, there is an almost uncountable number of different ways they may be prepared. Take into consideration the many categories and subcategories that are listed below:

  • The pods of long beans, also known as Chinese long beans, Asian long beans, yardlong beans, or asparagus beans, may grow up to two feet long and are exceedingly thin. Other names for long beans include Asian long beans, yardlong beans, and Chinese long beans. You might also select 'Red Noodle,' 'Orient Wonder,' or 'Yardlong' as an alternative. All pole.
  • French green beans, also called filet beans or haricots verts, have between 3 and 5 inches long and thin and soft pods. Other names for these beans are haricots verts and filet beans. You may also go with 'Calima,' 'Masai,' or 'Maxibel,' and you can grow 'Mascotte' in a container. Each of these names refers to a unique variety of the same plant—the complete and utter package.
  • The Italian and Romano names relate to large, flat pods that measure 6 and 8 inches in length, which is true even during the hottest summers. Experiment on your own with some "Early Bush Italian," "Jumbo" extra-large pods, or "Roma II." The complete and utter package.
  • The pods of purple beans, which may grow up to 15 centimeters long, have a rich purple tint while fresh; however, the beans themselves take on a green color when cooked. There is also the possibility of selecting the name "Amethyst," "Royal Burgundy," or "Velour" for your company. The complete and utter package.
  • The pods of snap beans, also called string beans or stringless beans, can range in length from five to seven inches and are relatively narrow. Try growing the bush variety 'Blue Lake 274', the heirloom 'Kentucky Wonder' (which may be developed as either a bush or a pole), or the 'Provider' variety (scrub).
  • Yellow wax beans have a flavor that is not as intense as the flavor of the green kind, and their pods can range in length from five to seven inches. The stringless 'Cherokee' (bush), the classic 'Golden Wax' (brush), or the 'Monte Gusto' (coppice) may appeal to your taste (pole).


  • Beans should be harvested first thing in the morning when their sugar content is at its peak.
  • Pick fresh green beans every day; the more beans you pick, the more beans will grow in the following days.
  • When green beans are harvested, they are picked when they are young and fragile, before the seeds have fully grown.
  • Look for pods that are substantial in size, have a hard texture, and can be broken easily; in general, they should be about as thick as a pencil.
  • Remove the beans from the plant by snapping or cutting them off, being careful not to injure the plant itself. If the beans are fresh, they should break readily when cracked.
  • When green beans have passed their prime, and the seeds within have begun to swell, they will have a grainy texture and a bitter flavor.

The Proper Way To Keep Green Beans In The Refrigerator

  • The beans may be kept in the refrigerator for up to 4 days if sealed in an airtight container and placed in the container.
  • Even if stored correctly, beans will become more brittle with time.
    Another option is to boil the produce in water and then instantly freeze it.
  • Beans have additional preservation options, including pickling and canning.

Wit And Wisdom

  • When referring to something as having low worth, the word "beans" is frequently employed in popular idioms. If someone says something "isn't worth a hill of beans," they mean that it is not very valuable.
  • It has been said that rubbing a wart with a bean and then tossing it over one's shoulder while not looking back is the best way to get rid of a wart.
fresh beans

fresh beans


Green Bean Pests And Diseases

Pest/Disease Type Symptoms Control/Prevention
Anthracnose FungusSpots that are yellow, brown, purple, or black on the leaves; spots that are sunken and dark on the stems and pods; spots that may create a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; deteriorate over timeEliminate sick plants, select resistant kinds, provide enough drainage, minimize watering from above, use compost and mulch, and rotate crops.
Aphids Insect Leaves that are misshapen and yellow, flowers and pods that are malformed, sticky "honeydew" (excrement), and sooty, black mold.Plant companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; place banana or orange peels around plants; clean leaves with a solution of dish soap and water containing 1 to 2 percent dish soap (no additions) every 2 to 3 days for two weeks. Include native plants in your garden to attract good bugs.
Cucumber Beetles Insect Holes in the leaves and flowers of rasped pods and plants stunted or dying may spread bacterial wilt.Handpicking, using heavy mulch, row coverings, and destroying plants afflicted with bacterial wilt are all recommended.
Cutworms Insect wilting; the stems of seedlings and transplants being cut slightly above or below the soil level; the complete disappearance of seedlingsPicking them by hand; in the spring, before planting, cultivating the soil to limit the number of larvae; Place a collar made of cardboard or newspaper that is four inches wide around each stem, and then bury it two inches into the earth. weed; cover the rows with plastic; destroy crop residue
Japanese Beetles Insect Skeletonized leaves (only the veins are left), eaten stalks, blooms, pods, and grubs are feeding on the roots.Manually choose, and make use of row covers
Leafhoppers Insect "hopper burn" (leaves that are yellow/brown, curled, or stunted) and lower yield are all symptoms of nymphal molting, which may be identified by the presence of white shed skins on the undersides of the leaves.Use a powerful spray of water to remove nymphs from the undersides of leaf surfaces; use row coverings; monitor adults using yellow sticky traps; weed, and eliminate crop debris.
Mexican Bean Beetles Insect Lacey, skeletonized leaves; black holes on podsPick out by hand, then buy and set free the friendly wasps. Tedious foveolatus when larvae are seen; destroying plants that are highly affected and using row coverings
Mosaic Virus (bean) VirusPlants are stunted, and their leaves have a mottled green pattern that looks like a mosaic. The leaves may also be twisted, blistered, or curled downward.Eliminate diseased plants, select resistant types and seeds tested and confirmed to be virus-free, use row covers, disinfect equipment, weed, and manage aphids.
Powdery Mildew Fungus The foliage can yellow or die, and the leaves and flowers may be deformation or stunting. White spots on the upper leaf surfaces grow to form a flour-like coating across the entire leaf.Destroy any leaves or plants that have been infected, pick a resistant variety, plant in full sun if feasible, and ensure adequate air circulation. Spritz plants with a mixture of one teaspoon of baking soda and one liter of water that has been dissolved. destroy crop residue
Root-Knot Nematodes Nematode In most cases, the roots become "knotty" or galled, and the plants become stunted, yellow, or wilted.Eliminate all crop traces, including the roots; select resistant cultivars; solarize the soil; add compost or manure that has aged; sterilize the equipment; and till the ground in the fall. rotation crops
Slugs/Snails Mollusk Abnormal holes in the leaves and flowers, gouged pods, sticky secretion on the plants and the soil, and seedlings that “disappear.”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in the evening, and in the morning, dispose of "hiding" pests in hot, soapy water; drown in a deep container filled with 1/2 inch of beer, or sugar water and yeast, and sunk so that the top edge is slightly above ground; apply a 1-inch-wide strip of food-grade diatomaceous earth as a barrier. Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering.
Stinkbugs Insect Symptoms include streaks of yellow and white on the leaves; pods that are twisted, scarred, or dimpled; seeds that have shrunken; and eggs that are frequently keg-shaped and clustered on the undersides of the leaves.Destroy crop residue; handpick (bugs exude odor; use gloves); destroy eggs; treat nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row coverings; weed; and if all else fails, spray adult insects with insecticide. till the soil in autumn
White mold Fungus Spots on stems, leaves, and other plant components that are a pale gray color appear "water-soaked," which then enlarge and form a white cottony growth that is subsequently covered in black granules; regions of bleaching; rotting crowns and pods; plants withering and falling.Eradicate sick plants, provide excellent air circulation, water in the morning, weed, and destroy crop residue; crop rotation on cycles of five years or longer may also be helpful.
Whiteflies Insect Honeydew, or feces, that is sticky; sooty, black mold; yellow or silver spots on foliage; wilted or stunted plants; deformation; Adults can be agitated into the flight, and several species are known to spread viruses.Remove any leaves or plants that have been affected, use a handheld vacuum to get rid of the bugs, and sprinkle water on the undersides of the leaves in the morning and evening to get rid of the pests. Use yellow sticky traps to keep an eye on the adults; you should spray insecticidal soap, and native plants should be used to attract hummingbirds and other beneficial insects. Weed, and use mulch that reflects light.
Wireworms Insect seeds that have been hollowed out; seedlings that have been cut; stunting/wilting; roots that have been eatenSet a trap by digging holes that are 2 to 4 inches deep every 3 to 10 feet, using a mixture of germinating beans, corn, and peas or potato sections as bait, covering the trap with soil or a board, and uncovering it after one week to kill the collected wireworms; sow seeds in warm soil for rapid germination; ensure adequate drainage; remove plant debris; rotate crops.




  • Green Bean Salad
  • Green Bean And BasilSoup

Green beans are a fixture in the vegetable gardens of many homeowners. That is because they are relatively simple to produce, even in confined locations, and generate an incredible amount of food. That is because green beans are incredibly easy to cultivate. The planting, growth, and harvesting of green beans, including both pole and bush crop types, are extensively explored on this page. The essay also goes into the contrasts that exist between the two groups. Preparing any necessary supports for growing pole beans is essential before you plant them. Because beans are sensitive about disturbing their roots, paying attention to this point is critical. If you are interested in growing pole beans, this point is of the utmost importance to keep in mind.