How To Make A Backyard Fruit Tree Layout?

If you take the time to plan out a fruit and berry orchard, you can ensure that your family will have access to a wide variety of delectable fruits and berries in the years to come. As a result, you ought to (as the proverb goes) take your time in organizing your plot, and the purpose of this article is to demonstrate how to build a layout for an orchard that contains fruit trees.

Preparer Of The Work To Be Done

When planning the placement of the site, it is essential to provide a spot that is open and sunny and has a high water table. It is not a good idea to plant it in a valley since the chilly air, and strong water currents there have a tendency to bury it during the spring floods. Following the completion of an outside examination of the garden plot, you should compile a list of the necessary preparatory actions and write it down in your diary.

• It is necessary to clear the area of any old stumps, wild bushes, rocks, and other waste.
• Dig a deep hole in the area or work your way through it by turning it over and tilling it.
• To encourage weed growth, water the area. After the seedlings have germinated, the area should be plowed thoroughly and leveled.
• At the same time, transport the soil to the nearest chemist in order to have it examined in order to determine its physical state, the sort of soil it is, and its chemical make-up. This is essential in order to perform the following maintenance tasks on the garden, such as fertilizing, watering, and performing various forms of tillage.

• When you complete your final fall plowing, you should apply the required doses of fertilizers and other components of soil development based on the results of the analysis, which are the recommendations. In the absence of these data, applying fertilizer to a region is not something that is advised to be done. When applying fertilizer and other components, it is preferable to do it directly in the planting hole (mineral fertilizers, humus or bio-humus, quicklime, biological pest preparations).

Conceiving A Plan For The Arrangement Of Fruit Trees And Shrubs

Create a drawing of the garden's layout on a sheet of paper that is distinct from your garden diary. The garden can be in front of, to the side of, or behind the home; however, the trees and plants should be arranged in a north-south orientation for increased light, and there should be three distinct zones. These can be organized such that one is in front of the other, or you can separate them into three distinct spaces that are positioned at the extreme extremities of the overall dacha area.

• In the case of joint zoning, the first zone is home to a vegetable garden. The plants in this garden do not cast any shadows on the crops growing in the second zone, so those crops are able to bask in the early sun as much as possible.
• Berry bushes should be planted in the second zone if at all possible, and they ought to attain a height of 1.5 meters (five feet). The plants in the third zone will not be harmed by the shade cast by the shrubs in the early morning hours.
• In the third zone, you will plant the actual orchard. To prevent it from casting a shade on the plots of the neighbors, it ought to be kept at least 8 to 10 feet (2.5 to 3 meters) away from them.

Please write down the names of the fruit and berry crops, together with brief descriptions of each, on the page of the garden diary that is designated for that purpose, and note their placement in the plot area under the appropriate numbers in the diagram.

The Layout Of Berry Beds

When designing the layout of your berry garden, it is important to take the peculiarities of the plants into direct consideration. For instance, blackcurrants flourish when they are surrounded by other plants, whereas buckthorn and lingonberry tend to be fairly uncooperative with their surroundings. Because of this, they need to be planted in different locations. Buckthorn, laurel roses, and hawthorn are all suitable options for use as landscape decoration in rest places. Buckthorn can be planted as a hedge, and they make for an attractive sight when spaced apart on a well-kept lawn.

Berry trees, according to the opinions of certain owners, should often be planted along the perimeter of the plot. In this scenario, a portion of the land is cleaned so that you can use it for various types of agriculture or places (recreation, sports, etc.). This arrangement is appropriate if a green fence does not encircle the plot or if the berry bushes themselves are capable of serving this purpose with the features that they possess on their own (thorny, lush, etc.).

You must plant the berry bushes closely together. It acts as a natural regulator to ensure that plants develop to their full potential, are resistant to disease, and produce abundant harvests.

• Raspberries are often grown in thick rows that are spaced 20 inches (0.5 m) apart with a distance of 3-5 feet (1-1.5 m) between each row. Raspberries, when they mature and fill up the space between rows, a temporary walkway is created by removing the raspberries from the space that was previously occupied by raspberries. After two to four years, the crop is rotated and moved back to its initial position by means of selective trimming of the shoots.
• At a minimum distance of 5 feet (1.5 meters), black currant, golden currant, and yarrow were planted between each other, while red currant was spaced at a distance of 3 feet (1 meter). Large bushes have the potential to cast their own shadows on one another, and the thorns that are unique to each variety of gooseberry can even make it difficult to harvest the fruit. Honeysuckle and iris are often spaced anywhere from 1 to 1.5 meters apart when they are used to create hedges, but they can be up to 6.5 feet (2.0 m) apart when they are used in berry beds.

The variety of berry bushes that you have is quite crucial to consider. Take some time to plan ahead and determine how many of each species and variety of berries you will need to grow in order to give your family fresh berries and preserve some for the colder months. Twenty raspberry bushes, three to four bushes of each type of currant and gooseberry, brambles, honeysuckle, and willows, are required to provide enough fruit for a family of four to five persons. Give yourself some breathing room for the arrival of new alien species; they will inevitably enter your field of vision at some point. If the berry orchard is well-planned, it will grow and provide fruit usually for seven to twelve years, after which it will be progressively rejuvenated or moved to another area.

Split Up The Apple Grove

Make a drawing of the arrangement of the fruit crops on the following page that is vacant in your garden journal. Set aside a floor space of roughly 43 square feet for every tree that you will use for growing a crop. It is important to prevent the plants from becoming too overgrown. Trees have the potential to outgrow their space and become competitive with or even dominant over one another. The holes for planting should be set 13 to 15 feet (four to 4.5 meters) apart along the row. Keep a minimum distance of 8 to 10 feet (2.5 to 3 meters) between rows. It is important to pay attention to the kind of crop. For instance, the majority of farms are currently transitioning to growing colonial apple and pear trees because these fruits are the most important garden crops in Dacha Agriculture. These species are significantly more diminutive, but their production is virtually on par with that of the taller crops. Plants that grow in a column require less maintenance, are more resistant to disease, and are less likely to be damaged by frost.

It is adequate to have one to two specimens of each tree species for the average family. It is important to have early, mid, and late types in the garden so that you can harvest fresh fruit during the warm season and yet have fruit that you can preserve for the colder months. Two cherries, preferably early and late varieties, from the orchard crop are sufficient. Instead of planting intermediate cherries, plant two different kinds of cherries, and they are going to produce a yield following the early cherries. You will need one quince, two to three plum trees, and one quince on which to graft another kind or variety later.

It is sufficient to have one or two varieties of frost-resistant apricots. Using grafting techniques, you may take two or three apple trees and turn them into six or eight different varieties of apples with varying ripening times. Remember to leave some space for rare and unusual species. Take care to replace walnut trees in their own individual plots. Under the protection of this crop's canopy, very little else is able to sustain life. If you enjoy hazelnuts, plant them in the front row, where they will receive more sunlight and be less likely to be shaded by the larger trees. 11–12 fruit trees will eventually bear 18–20 different types of fruit between them.

It is essential to take advantage of the newer types that have been developed in order to keep the garden free from illness and make it last for a longer period of time. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, and changes in the weather, and they have a longer period of time during which they flower and produce fruit. You can locate kinds suited to your region in catalogs and other types of literature, including specifics such as the zone in which they thrive. When purchasing seedlings, it is important to check with a knowledgeable person first. Remember! If you plant inferior seedlings in your garden, you will have more labor and care to do, but the yield and quality of the fruit will not meet your expectations.

Common Methods Of Planting A Garden

When you begin planting your garden in the fall, you will need to begin by digging planting pits according to your plan and preparing a fertilizer mixture in close proximity to each pit. The amount of fertilizer required will vary depending on the characteristics of the soil.

Making Ready The Planting Holes

You may only prepare a planting hole of an estimated size in the fall, as the actual size will be determined by the size of the root system, which will vary in proportion to the age of the seedlings that you purchase. The diameter of the planting hole is estimated to be about 23 by 23 inches (60 by 60 cm) for seedlings that are 2 years old. The diameter of the planting hole for seedlings that are 3 years old may be increased to 27 to 30 inches (70 to 80 cm), but this will be determined after the seedlings have been planted in the hole.

Make The Mixture For The Potting Soil

In the area around each hole, combine topsoil, humus, and peat. Before planting seedlings in the spring, add one cup of wood ash, one cup of quicklime, and two hundred and fifty grams of nitrocellulose to the mixture. Combine thoroughly.

The Acquisition Of Seedlings And Their Subsequent Preparation

The spring is the ideal time to set seedlings in their new homes. During the time that the plant is actively growing, the seedlings will get stronger, and the root system will get stronger as well. After that, throughout the warm season that spans spring, summer, and autumn, young trees will adjust to their new environment.

When you are on your way to the cottage, it is best not to be in a rush to acquire saplings from particular dealers that you are not familiar with. It is best to purchase young trees from a farm or nursery rather than grow them yourself. Here you may be more guaranteed to buy the correct release variety for the fruit or berry harvest you want.

Conduct a thorough inspection of the seedlings that were chosen. You should not buy them if the roots are dry, the trunks are bowed, the bark is damaged, or the gums are missing. Remember! There is no amount of the seller's assurance that can make up for the time lost.

Rules For Planting New Seedlings

A rooting agent or other growth stimulants should be soaked into seedlings for one to two days prior to planting. Put together a receptacle with some clay putty that has some "Pseudomonas fluorescent bacterium" biopharmaceutical in it. It is possible to employ other bio fungicides that are compatible with the mixing process in the tank.

Put some potting soil cones in the holes for around two to three weeks before you want to start seeding seedlings. During the course of this week, the cones will become more stable, and the seedlings that you planted will be placed in the holes in the appropriate manner. After the seedlings have been prepared, soak them in potting soil, place them into the hole, lay the roots on the cones so that they do not break upwards, and then fill the hole with potting soil until it is two-thirds full. Place a pail of water inside the container. After it has been absorbed, you should add the remaining potting soil or bonsai soil to the container. Strike the stake with the hammer to fasten the young tree to the support in a figure-of-eight arrangement. Saplings that are not securely attached will wobble in the wind and rip off the fine roots that are necessary for maintaining the connection between the plant and the soil.

Important Details For Planting 

When you are planting, you want to make sure that the root neck is placed at the appropriate depth. If it is dug too deeply, the tree could die without apparent cause anywhere between five and ten years later (especially on thick soils). It is ideal to "hide" the root neck portion of the plant from the dry upper layer on light sandy loam soils (especially in the south), which can be accomplished by burying it three to four inches (eight to ten centimeters) in the soil. Immersion does not disrupt the typical growth pattern of trees like figs, currants, plums, or apple trees when the seedlings are in the process of forming adventitious roots or shoots. The seedlings of these plant species are able to rapidly re-establish their root system, most of the time even on soil that does not have an adequate amount of moisture.

When planting rootstock seedlings, the root neck should be at or slightly above the level of the planting hole (between 0.8 and 1.2 inches, or 2 to 3 centimeters) (no more). It is recommended that the grafting point on seedlings that have been grafted be 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) above the rootstock. Inexperienced gardeners frequently get rootstocks and grafting mixed up when they plant seedlings up to the grafting point. In this scenario, the rootstock will become deeply ingrained in the ground, which will result in the tree passing away before its natural time.

If the root neck has been accurately recognized and the seedling has been planted 1.5 to 2 inches (4-5 cm) above the soil, then the tree has been planted correctly.

In the area surrounding the planting spot, compact the dirt. Build a roller with a height of 2.2 to 2.7 inches (5-7 cm) at a radius of 12 to 20 inches (30 to 50 cm) from the trunk of the tree, and pour water from two to three buckets. The seedlings will be ingested into the soil at the same time as the soil takes up the water. Make sure the root neck is always between 0.8 and 1.2 inches (two to three centimeters) above the soil. After watering, if additional soil is required, cover it with a thin layer of mulch made of finer particles (peat or humus, sawdust). If live seedlings are acquired and planted appropriately, your garden will sprout its first shoots in 2-3 weeks.

How To Determine The Origin Of The Root Canal

• When working with new seedlings, use a damp towel to wash the base of the trunk as well as the roots as they first emerge. The change in color from green (the trunk) to a lighter brown indicates the location of the roots (root area).
• For seedlings that are three to four years old, clean the lower section of the trunk with a moist rag, and once the wet region has dried, scrape off the bark with a knife where the trunk extends slightly to the roots. You should repeat this process for older seedlings. If the lowest layer of the juvenile cortex at the expansion has a greenish hue, this indicates that it is the stem, whereas a yellowish hue indicates that it is the root zone. The root neck is the region of the root where the color changes from one to the other.
• There are some young seedlings in which the point at which the upper lateral roots exit the trunk can be seen in plain view. This is the root ball. You must maintain the area where the roots are discovered at a higher level than the planting hole.

Why You Shouldn't Do This When Planting Seeds

• Do not use semi-rotten manure for planting, but only humus combined with soil.
• Avoid the temptation to continuously provide the seedlings with insufficient amounts of water. The soil in the hole for planting will only become drier as a result of this.
• It is not recommended that you use cold water to water the seedlings (tap water).
• After sowing new seeds, you should wait one full year before fertilizing the plants, especially with nitrogen-containing fertilizer.

• After planting, avoid applying a thick layer of mulch on top of the soil in the root zone. In the event of significant rainfall, the water that has accumulated in the mulch may cause the young bark to dry out, which ultimately results in the death of the plant. The soil should be covered with a thick layer of mulch in the fall so that it is shielded from the damage that can be caused by frost and so that young seedlings do not perish as a result of the low temperatures.

What Do I Need To Do When Planting Young Seeds?

Brush the seedlings with a solution containing chalk and clay, and then apply biological agents for the control of pests and diseases or a solution containing copper alum.

In order to insulate the trunk, You should use multiple layers of burlap, non-woven mulch,  paper, and any other appropriate material.

The wire mesh should be buried in the ground anywhere from two to four inches (five to ten centimeters) deep to protect the trunk from rabbits and other animals.

After there has been a snowfall that is sufficiently heavy, pack the snow around the trunk so that it protects it from rats.