Amaryllis Care And Growth

Amaryllis Care And Growth

Amaryllis Care And Growth

Updated on 10/1/2023
Emma DowneyBy Emma Downey
Gardening Expert
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Amaryllis care is extremely popular because of the exotic trumpet-shaped flowers on leafless stalks or scapes that may reach up to two feet. These scapes or stalks can grow up to two feet in size. You may buy Amaryllis as bare bulbs or freshly planted pots at garden supply stores. They are fantastic presents for gardeners of all skill levels and bring an eye-catching splash of color to both indoor and outdoor environments.

Amaryllis originates from the Greek word amarysso, which translates to "to dazzle." The plants that belong to the genus Amaryllis were first discovered in Africa. Evidence suggests that bulbs can maintain their ability to flower even after being moved to Europe during the 1700s, and this epoch may sometimes last for seventy-five years. However, the amaryllis bulbs are readily available for purchase and cultivation as houseplants are hybrids of the species Hippeastrum, which are native to South and Central America. These hybrids have been created through cross-pollination between the two species. It is possible to cultivate these amaryllis hybrid bulbs effectively indoors.



Depending on the kind, the diameter of an amaryllis flower can range anywhere from four to ten inches, and the flower's morphology can be either solitary or double.

Flowers can be available in various colors, with red and white being the most common choices. However, You can find other colors. Pink, salmon, apricot, rose, and even dark burgundy are some of the different colors you can find on flowers. Some variants, called picotees, have two easily distinguishable colors, green and purple (having petals with an extra edge color).

Bulb Selection, Planting, And Maintenance

A wide selection of amaryllis bulbs are available for purchase, and each one comes in a unique size. The amaryllis bulbs' size and quality will affect the plant's performance, whether the bulbs are purchased as bare bulbs to be planted or as bulbs already planted in a container.

Selecting Bulbs

  • Use the largest bulbs currently available for the plant type you want to grow since these bulbs will produce more stalks and blooms in the first year. If you use the largest bulbs currently available for the plant variety you want to grow, click here. To cultivate something like tulips, you should pick the largest bulbs on the market. When the bulb has reached its full size, it will be able to produce a greater quantity of flowers since it will have the capacity to do so.


  • The bulbs should have a solid texture, and they should be scorched. There should not be any visible evidence of mold, decay, or injury on the bulbs.
  • It is not uncommon to find new growth (leaves or buds) growing from bare bulbs or bulbs that have already been planted in the ground, and that can happen with both types of bulbs.
  • Choose bulbs with new growth that is a vibrant green color and are free of any spots or other signs of damage that are obvious to the naked eye. Choose light bulbs that do not appear to have been broken or damaged.
  • Possibly, the base of sure bulbs will give rise to a new bulb, although this only happens very rarely. That will develop into a new bulb, which, after it has achieved maturity, can be disassociated from the parent plant and transplanted to another site.


Growing conditions for Amaryllis are ideal when the container's width is limited. Plastic, metal, ceramic, and terracotta are just a few of the many various kinds of materials that you may use to build containers. There are also many other kinds of materials that you can utilize.

  • The bulbs should have a solid texture and be completely dry. There should not be any visible evidence of mold, decay, or injury on the bulbs.
  • Choose a simple container to empty, especially one with several holes drilled into the base.

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  • If there is sufficient drainage, there will be less of a possibility that the roots or bulbs of the plants will rot. That is because the rot is caused by excess moisture (rotting from excess water).
  • It is recommended that the pot's diameter is approximately an inch and a half more comprehensive than the broadest part of the bulb and that its height is roughly double that of the bulb. That will ensure adequate space for the roots to grow and spread over the soil's surface.
  • Add potting soil that is fresh, sterile, and abundant in organic matter, like peat moss, to the container until it is around fifty percent full of its total capacity. Continue doing this until the container is full of the substance.
  • Place the bulb inside the container, and then adjust its position so that the potting soil will be near the bulb's roots.
  • It is of the utmost importance to check that the bulb has been positioned above the container's rim.
  • When you can still see between one-third and one-half of the bulb, you should stop working the soil around the bulb after adding more of it and patting it down around the bulb. That is the point at which you should stop working the dirt.
  • Packing the potting medium around the bulb is essential to ensure proper drainage.
  • After placing the container in a sink or another location that will allow for appropriate drainage, You should water the potting soil until it is completely saturated with water. It would be best to do that after You place the container. You need to carry out this procedure one more after the container has been positioned. Throw everything out and make a huge mess of everything.


  • Put the pot on top of the saucer, and then put it in an area with a lot of sunlight. That will help the bank retain its heat.

Caring For Bulbs

  • Give the plant some water when the top two inches of soil in the container in which it is growing begin to feel dry to the touch. At the same time, check to ensure that the drainage holes in the bottom of the container are still open.
  • Do not let the soil become so saturated with water that the plant drowns in it, which could cause the bulbs and roots to rot and attract pests you do not want. If you do not let the soil become so saturated with water, the plant will drown in it.
  • In addition to fertilizing the Amaryllis every time you water it using a solution that is just one-half as concentrated as what is advised, you should also fertilize the plant whenever it produces new growth (including on newly purchased bulbs).
  • You should fertilize the plant with a houseplant food rich in the element phosphorus to stimulate the plant's growth toward flowering and fruit production.

The fertilizer analysis is always provided on the box and is commonly displayed as three digits, such as 10-20-15. For example, the study may read "10-20-15."



These percentages describe the levels of three macronutrients that are necessary for the growth of plants and are as follows: potassium, nitrogen, and phosphorus (respectively referred to as K, N, and P) (potassium).

In this illustration, the ratio of nitrogen to phosphorous and potassium to nitrogen present in fertilizer: is ten percent nitrogen, twenty percent phosphorous, and fifteen percent potassium.

  • As soon as you notice that the flower buds on the plant have begun to open, remove the plant from where it is receiving direct sunlight, and you should do that if possible.

After-Flowering Care

The secret to ensuring that amaryllis blooms for many years are to ensure that the plants continue to develop AFTER they have finished producing flowers actively. That is the only way to ensure that the flowers will continue to form on the plant. That is the only way to ensure that Amaryllis will continue to bloom for many years into the foreseeable future.

  • When the flowers have outlived their usefulness, you can stop the further development of the seeds by cutting off the sections that are no longer needed. As a direct result of the production of sources, the essential energy reserves of the bulb will be drained, which will have the impact of slowing down the process by which the bulb flowers.
  • Please wait until the flower stalk has turned yellow before attempting to remove it; that will give you a better chance of success.
  • A green stem will continue to support photosynthesis, which generates energy stored in the bulb for future leaf growth and the formation of blossoms. This energy is needed for future leaf growth and the development of blooms. This energy is essential for the plant's development since it allows it to grow new leaves and flowers. This effort is going to be directed toward achieving those objectives.
  • If the bulb does not develop a flowering stalk during the subsequent blooming season, it is possible that it did not retain adequate nutrients throughout the post-blooming period for it to do so. That would explain why it did not produce a flowering stalk during the preceding blooming season, making it possible to do so throughout the flowering season before it.
  • It is taking care of the plant's health and ensuring that it receives adequate nutrients to support its growth might stimulate flowering in the plant.
  • After the flowers on your plant have fallen off, you should move it so that it will be exposed to the maximum amount of light possible by relocating it to the brightest spot you can find within. That should be done so that it will be able to thrive in its new environment. In the foreseeable future, the plant will continue producing long leaves with a smooth texture. The photosynthesis process will benefit from these leaves' contribution as they help advance the process.
  • You should use a fertilizer made specifically for houseplants and adhere to a regular schedule when providing the plant with water and fertilizer.

Move Plants Outdoors



It is essential to keep a close eye on the plant's health and actively promote its expansion during the summer to increase the likelihood that it will produce flowers later in the season.

  • After allowing the amaryllis plant to become acclimated to the outside environment by placing it in the shade or indirect light for some time before transporting the plant outside in the spring when there is no longer any risk of frost damage, move the plant out.
  • Gradually transfer the container to a spot or garden bed where it will be exposed to direct sunlight for a minimum of six hours per day.
  • It would be best if you planted your potted Amaryllis in a sunny location on a deck or patio; alternatively, you might bury the entire container in the soil of a garden bed that receives a lot of sunlight.
  • Since the Amaryllis will continue to thrive in the container in which it is growing, it is not necessary to remove it from the container in which it is growing.
  • You can keep a houseplant or indoor plant fertilizer created for various applications in good condition by applying it to the plant monthly. Because of this, the bulb will be better able to store nutrients, making it more straightforward to produce blossoms the following year.
  • It is essential to bring amaryllis plants indoors well before the first frost of the fall season so that you can shield them from harsh temperatures.
  • They are not robust enough to withstand frost or temperatures lower than freezing, so they cannot survive in those environments.

Control Blooming



Unlike many other kinds of bulbs, Amaryllis bulbs do not require a length of time to be spent in a dormant or resting state before you may plant them. If they are allowed to continue growing in the same manner as they have been, they will start producing blooms once more.

However, You can control the bloom time if the bulb is allowed to become dormant (i.e., stop developing) for a predetermined amount of time before it is planted. It would help if you did that before the bulb was produced. Very little energy a plant has stored is used up in the dormant phase of its life cycle. The phrase "energy consumption" is commonly used to refer to this phenomenon.

  • You should keep the amaryllis plant in a cold, dry, and dark position after being brought indoors for the winter in its potted form. A closet or a cellar are both excellent examples of such locations.
  • The temperature should be between fifty and sixty degrees Fahrenheit for optimal comfort.
  • Before cutting the leaves off the plant, it is in your best interest to wait until they have totally dried up and become a brown color first.
  • Wait eight to twelve weeks before planting the bulb and taking it out of the dark. Tats is the minimum amount of time you should wait. It is not recommended to water the plants at this time because of the weather.
  • Check the light bulb regularly for any signs of mildew or mold growth. If it is discovered, the application of a fungicide or the total removal of the bulb should be contemplated as options.


  • If new growth occurs during this period, relocate the potted bulb to a spot where it will receive more sunshine and remove it from where you kept it in the dark before. That will allow the plant to obtain the optimal amount of light necessary for healthy growth. Remove any leaves that have already perished from the plant. After the blooms have died off and fallen off the plant, it is essential to keep the plant well-watered and fertilized in the same way described in the previous section.
  • Remove the bulb pot from the dark and replant it in an area where there is plenty of sunshine if there is still no new growth after eight to twelve weeks.
  • After the blooms have died off and fallen off the plant, it is essential to keep the plant well-watered and fertilized in the same way described in the previous section.
  • Because of this process, You will drive the plant to make flowers, presuming that the bulb can produce the energy necessary to build a flower stalk. The plant will be forced to pay for flowers because of this process.
  • In the vast majority of occurrences, the flower stalks will develop first; nevertheless, there are some circumstances in which the leaves will emerge first.
  • It takes most blooms around four to six weeks to emerge from bulbs that have been dormant after the bulbs have been planted in the ground.
  • It is possible to synchronize a plant's flowering to coincide with specific holidays and events by adjusting the timing of the plant's flowers.

Replanting Amaryllis

Amaryllis plants produce the most beautiful flowers when cultivated in a container with little room for expansion. The container restricts the plant's ability to spread its roots (potbound). It is sufficient for them to have their pots updated once every three to four years; this is the only thing that is required of them. As soon as their dormant period has ended, you must report them into the new soil. They will be guaranteed to grow in a healthy environment due to this.

  • Repeat the previous step to loosen the roots. Run a knife around the pot's edge many times while executing the last step.
  • Carefully dislodge the amaryllis plant and the root ball from the container, taking precautions to avoid damaging either component.
  • The plant needs to be repotted into a container with slightly more space, which you may now do because the time has arrived.

Pests And Diseases



When amaryllis plants are kept under greenhouse conditions, they are subject to attack from a wide variety of insects, mites, and illnesses; however, when Amaryllis are grown in the privacy and convenience of one's own home, these problems are not nearly as common. Protecting bulbs from the vast majority of diseases and pest infestations is possible if one first ensures the bulbs. They intend to buy have been subjected to an exhaustive examination before making the purchase and then take all of the necessary steps to take care of the bulbs once they have been purchased.

If amaryllis plants are moved indoors for the winter, there is a greater chance that the narcissus bulb fly, a species of fly that is a member of the genus Merodon, may lay its eggs in the bulbs of the amaryllis plants.

After first eating on the scales that cover the bulb's surface, the maggot larvae will eventually make their way into the bulb's core. Once there, they will continue to feed on the bulb's tissue. Because of the infestation, the plant may experience wilting, yellowing, and distortion of its leaves; the plant may die as a result of the effects of the infestation. However, upon closer inspection, putrid tissue may be seen even if the exterior of the bulb may have the illusion of being normal when the button is pressed.

What should be done: Because it is difficult to control, the most effective course of action is to destroy any bulbs found to be infected as soon as the narcissus bulb fly is detected. It would be best to do that as soon as the narcissus bulb fly is found. In most cases, pesticide use does not completely eradicate the pests that are the subject of the treatment.

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There is a kind of fruit fly known as the fungus gnat, and You will probably drive these flies to areas of soil that have poor drainage or are always wet due to overwatering. Fungus gnats feed on mold and other fungi and also feed on fruit.

Not only can the fungal disease known as red blotch (Stagonospora Curtiss) severely impact the aesthetic value of amaryllis plants, but it also has the potential to harm the plant's overall health. On the other hand, this disease does not ordinarily play a role in the plant's demise under normal conditions.

There is a possibility of red spots or scars at the base of the flower stalks and the emerging leaves, which will later turn into elongated cankers with crimson borders. This development can take place. These blemishes and spots can manifest themselves on the flower stalks. It can be challenging to diagnose the illness when only a few little red or pink areas are present because they are so superficial. These spots have the potential to occasionally appear on the surface of bulbs that are otherwise in good health. The fleshy layers of the bulb that lie underneath these sections are supposed to be white, and the feelings of those layers shouldn't have any markings on them. The leaves of the plant have the potential to grow misshapen, and the flower stalks have a high risk of breaking, both of which add to the plant's unappealing appearance.



To prevent the appearance of a blotchy red spot, You should take the following preventative measures:

  • Invest in some light bulbs that are better for your well-being. Before purchasing amaryllis bulbs, it is essential to thoroughly inspect them to exclude the chance of buying bulbs that are faulty or have cankers.
  • Put the bulbs in a fresh content that has been meticulously scrubbed clean, and then fill the container with sterile potting soil.
  • Ensure that the pruners and stakes used on the afflicted plants are sterilized by immersing them in alcohol. This will prevent the spread of the disease.
  • Ensure that the plants are given the best care possible (see Selecting, planting, and caring for bulbs).
  • If the illness continues to spread, You could treat the bulbs with a fungicide that exerts an amaryllis care effect on the body as a whole.